Italy / Capri
Heavenly Table

Capri, like so many stylish island destinations, lives more than one life. The one of crowds & tour groups during the day. And the one less crazed. Once the groups get on the boat & go.

Midday can be the most hectic. When crowds are most likely to crowd out your view. And you can't find a table for lunch. We'd never have thought of looking up so high to escape the hordes, had we not run into a kindly old shopkeeper, who understood our frustration.

He took us to the main piazza in Capri Town. But why here, the most overpopulated venue for lunch? But once in the center of it all, he pointed up. Up high. So high, we had to squint to see where his finger motioned. There, higher than any other balconied spot, was the very small Pulalli Wine Bar Plenty of steps later, we got the best spot in town to enjoy the frenzy below.

The little restaurant's owner, Fabrizio, delivered excellent grilled calamari & wine to our table. We overlooked the beautiful chiesa (church) that dominates the square. The atmosphere was intimate & quiet.

Pulalli mostly caters to an evening crowd. That means lunchtime is very relaxing here, unlike any other restaurant in the town square. And the birds-eye view over everyone else, jostling for tables way down below, makes it the place to enjoy midday Capri.