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French West Indies
Probably Not the Beach of Your Dreams


Dreaming of an island beach, you probably won't conjure up the beaches of Guadeloupe. But if you can dream an offbeat dream, you may get a glimpse of what a Guadelopean beach is really like. It's a dream of wild landscape, meeting the water's edge. A dream of animals roaming freely. A dream of quiet surroundings or islanders enjoying themselves on a Sunday afternoon. And it's a dream of good food nearby, right on the beach.
Gaughin might have painted it if he wasn't in Tahiti (and if he knew about it). Grand Anse Beach on Terre de Bas, Les Saintes, has a French seaside ambience that's hard to find anywhere else. Its old-world feel is highlighted by its truly local character. 'Santois' fishing boats painted orange & blue are pulled-up on shore. The golden sand and lush palms beckon from the pretty, cove-like setting. Brightly painted, small fishing bungalows & beach pavillions are clustered up near the road. The area embodies a French island spirit that looks like it's stopped in a time warp.
Terre de Bas can hardly be called a tourist island. Grand Anse beach is right on the the road. But it's a quiet, very tropical area with few cars ever passing by. Besides the beach itself, the real find here are the great little beach restaurants, like La Belle Etoile.

Find a place to eat and do as the French do. Relax over a long lunch with friends. Then amble onto the beach and a take a snooze under a palm tree. Or watch a fisherman work on his nets.
When you go to Terre de Bas' sister island of Terre de Haute, you are in for a more lively beach experience. The same wild beauty can be found on Baie de Pompierre Beach as on Grand Anse. And the same cove-like setting. But Pompierre is more popular, making it a good people-watching beach. Be sure to buy a 'pannini' on the way in from one of the stands at the entrance. It's a delicious made to order sandwich on a small baguette. Then find your spot & settle in for awhile.
If you happen to doze off, you won't do so for long, before some unexpected beach goers wake you. The wild goats on Baie de Pompierre are famous for their impromptu search of beach bags, looking for anything edible. Your pannini perhaps? Watching these sweet-natured animals frolic is amusing, especially their babies. Shooing them away from your sandwich is an experience. They roam around looking every bit as local to this beach as any sunbather. Islanders don't seem to mind their presence. And they're definitely better to have around than seagulls, right?
Either of these Guadeloupean beaches are the stuff of dreams, if you like your beaches a little offbeat & very French. Besides, only the French could serve up such wildly wonderful beaches, with some great food to enjoy beachside, before your nap!


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