| French
West Indies
Probably Not the Beach of Your Dreams
 Dreaming
of an island beach, you probably won't conjure up the beaches of Guadeloupe.
But if you can dream an offbeat dream, you may get a glimpse of what a
Guadelopean beach is really like. It's a dream of wild landscape, meeting
the water's edge. A dream of animals roaming freely. A dream of quiet
surroundings or islanders enjoying themselves on a Sunday afternoon. And
it's a dream of good food nearby, right on the beach.
Gaughin
might have painted it if he wasn't in Tahiti (and if he knew about it).
Grand Anse Beach on Terre de Bas, Les Saintes, has a French seaside ambience
that's hard to find anywhere else. Its old-world feel is highlighted by
its truly local character. 'Santois' fishing boats painted orange &
blue are pulled-up on shore. The golden sand and lush palms beckon from
the pretty, cove-like setting. Brightly painted, small fishing bungalows
& beach pavillions are clustered up near the road. The area embodies
a French island spirit that looks like it's stopped in a time warp.
Terre
de Bas can hardly be called a tourist island. Grand Anse beach is right
on the the road. But it's a quiet, very tropical area with few cars ever
passing by. Besides the beach itself, the real find here are the great
little beach restaurants, like La Belle Etoile.
Find
a place to eat and do as the French do. Relax over a long lunch with friends.
Then amble onto the beach and a take a snooze under a palm tree. Or watch
a fisherman work on his nets.
When
you go to Terre de Bas' sister island of Terre de Haute, you are in for
a more lively beach experience. The same wild beauty can be found on Baie
de Pompierre Beach as on Grand Anse. And the same cove-like setting. But
Pompierre is more popular, making it a good people-watching beach. Be
sure to buy a 'pannini' on the way in from one of the stands at the entrance.
It's a delicious made to order sandwich on a small baguette. Then find
your spot & settle in for awhile.
If
you happen to doze off, you won't do so for long, before some unexpected
beach goers wake you. The wild goats on Baie de Pompierre are famous for
their impromptu search of beach bags, looking for anything edible. Your
pannini perhaps? Watching these sweet-natured animals frolic is amusing,
especially their babies. Shooing them away from your sandwich is an experience.
They roam around looking every bit as local to this beach as any sunbather.
Islanders don't seem to mind their presence. And they're definitely better
to have around than seagulls, right?
Either
of these Guadeloupean beaches are the stuff of dreams, if you like your
beaches a little offbeat & very French. Besides, only the French could
serve up such wildly wonderful beaches, with some great food to enjoy
beachside, before your nap!
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