This island isn't typical-tropical. On Terre de Haut, of Les Saintes, the houses are more french-seaside. And the main town of Le Bourg is reminescent of St. Barth & St. Tropez. But back in time, thirty or more years ago.
The whole island has a storybook quaintness about it, but without the cuteness. There's a real town and a real workaday mentality, where fishing is still a source of livelihood. Tourism has come ashore, however. Mostly daytrippers from Guadeloupe. But even though Les Saintes has been discovered, it hasn't been devoured by tourists ...yet.
Squarish little houses and cafes greet you at the harbor, most capped off with red metal roofs. Buildings line the narrow streets that feel more like sidewalks. Homes are simple wooden abodes with a creole influence. They're charming & functional: French doors, louvered windows, mosaic tiled floors, dormers & plenty of gingerbread trim.

And of course, small, flowered-filled verandahs. Most buildings are painted but many are faded. Some are newly done up. But others are tattered. Blue, white and orange are favorite colors.
There's simplicity and orderliness to this French island but it's also a little frayed along the edges. And that's exactly why we love it. You can't help but feel this is all very real and not "disneyesque." The quiet French style here makes you wish that St. Tropez or St. Barth were still like this, too.
Private homes, called "gites," have rooms to rent. They are a reflection of their owners. Simple, tidy rooms are the norm. Nothing special. Relaxing on the verandah with a view of the garden is the spot to be. Getting to know your host (hopefully you know some French) is the best way to learn about the island.
But if you really want French atmosphere with lots of style, the place to be is Les Petits Saints aux Anacardiers. Formerly the mayor's home, this creole house sits above town with a magnificent view of the bay below. The gardens are voluptuous. The rooms are eccentrically decorated by the art/antiques-dealer owners.

And the inn boasts a wonderful restaurant, the most upscale on the island. But what's best about this place is its slightly decadent French atmosphere. With only 11 rooms (book one facing the water) it's intimate & friendly and a bit "over the top" in character. Like out of a Tennesee Williams novel, all sultry & sexy.
On the other end of the spectrum is the new Coco Playa Hotel The name sounds like it would be a big, splashy place on the beach. It is on the beach, right in town, but it's small, new & informal. The rooms are simply decorated & kept neat as a pin. Those facing the water have a fabulous view of the harbor. The staff is young, energetic & absolutely charming. The best part? Everything town has to offer is right outside the door. Staying at the Coco Playa, you can enjoy the wonderful neighborliness of the area after the daytrippers leave.
Terre de Haute isn't for everyone, especially if you're into ultimate comfort, American-style. But if you're looking for a very French island where homes & acccommodations haven't lost their soul...yet. Get going!