France / Ile de Re
On The Food Trail

You can make a pilgrimage here. A food one. On the French Atlantic islands, they specialize in everyday foods that take on a gourmet taste. It's the island air, the sea & the land that makes them special. And just maybe, because they're French.

"Huitres" or oysters are the most famous food item. And yes, they're the most delicious we've ever experienced. Although you can order them at most any restaurant, take a midday break & go to a roadside oyster shack. The building is a simple affair, compared to what goes on out back. The oysters are farmed in mud beds, carefully raised. It's a strenuous family business.

Order your oysters (served raw only) according to size & quality. Order the "meilleur"...the best. Slurp them down with a bit of vinaigrette or lemon. They come with a slice of bread & butter. And a glass of house wine. Six huitres & the trimmings cost about $5 USD.
You won't be disappointed wherever you order them. But after our oyster pilgrimage, we liked those served at the restaurant Contre Quai the most (rue St. Nicolas, Sauzon, Belle Ile). At least for now. Until we have a chance to go back & try some more.

Say "cheese." Of course. This is France! But on these islands, it's goat cheese that rules. Buy it young or aged. Buy it covered in coarse herbs or pepper. Buy it at the outdoor markets. Or better yet, venture to a goat farm ("fromagerie") & taste the best. Watch it being made. See the stars of the show (the goats, of course). And buy your fill. La Chevrerie de Norimoutier is a good choice. And if you "want your cake and to eat it too," try the Tourteau-Fromage. Cake made with goat cheese. More cake than cheesecake, it is incredibly moist with a crisp brown crust. Good with fresh fruit (did we tell you about the wild strawberries?). Available at patisseries.

Then there's the salt. It is such a good quality, that even Williams Sonoma sells Ile de Re table salt. But on the islands themselves you can get a variety. Along with the most popular, "fleur de sel" (table salt), try coarse for cooking. Or herbed salt for grilling. And bath salts for steeping in the tub. Basic it may be, but it's hard to resist the beauty of the salt pans as you drive through rural areas of Re & Noirmoutier. Stop at some that are open to visitors. Watch how they rake the "beds." And buy some to take home. All the French Atlantic islands sell it packaged in grocery & gourmet shops, too.

The potato, "pomme de terre," is no lowly food here. Especially the delicious "bonotte" variety harvested in May. (According to locals they used to be even tastier, when seaweed from the beach was added to the soil). And what could be better than really fresh "pomme frites" sold at a roadside stand? No normal sack of potatoes, the famous candy ones of Noirmoutier are delicious.They look exactly like potatoes. Only miniature. This almond paste & chocolate confection is a specialty of the island. A great gift to bring home from P. Giraudet's confection shop.