Move over Ambergris Caye. We’ve found another island that’s just as low-key, funky & wonderful.

Only a 20 minute ferry ride from obnoxious Cancun, it’s amazing that Isla Mujeres (Mexico) still manages to live in it own little world. [editor’s note: take a private taxi from Cancun’s airport to ferry landing & run from tour-hype madness at airport.]

Fishermen still do their thing. And tourist shops are small, mostly “mom & pop” ventures. There are a few Cancun-wannabe restaurants & bars that do their best to lure you in. Avoid them. And beach hotels that are forever trying to get copy-cat Cancun. Avoid them, too.

You won’t need or want to rent a car. The grand tour of the 2.5 sq. mile island is easy to maneuver in a golf cart. Slow, yes. But the open-air ride & time you’ll get to take in the scenery is what it’s all about. Taxis can speed you to any destination, but do the island yourself once.

See the site where the remains of Temple Ixchel stand. Not much left of it, but the cliff setting is spectacular, overlooking the wild blue sea. And an interesting modern sculpture garden surrounds the Temple.

Check out the coastline from the Panoramic Highway (well-paved, but a highway it’s not).
No swimming here in the crashing surf.

Back in town (El Pueblo), take a walk along the quay where fresh fish is brought in on simple, colorful boats. Watch fish being filleted & nets untangled.

Right there is the restaurant Velazqueaz, where you’ll get the island’s best “tikin-xik.” Grilled red snapper with spices. A Yucatecan dish not to be missed. We’ve had it elsewhere in Mexico, but you won’t find it any better than here, at this simple family-run eatery, right on the beach.

For sunset, head over the Playa Norte area of small beach hotels & low key beach bars, where you seat is a swing. By then the daytrippers from Cancun will be gone. After, head back into town for a stroll through the colorful shops. Nothing fancy. Nothing great to buy. But fun. Then have dinner at an outdoor restaurant.

For beach lovers who have to swim, you’ll find mostly shallow, ‘wade-in-forever-to-get-all-wet’ areas in front of Playa Norte hotels. The water is beautiful, but we wouldn’t recommend the island if it’s a serious beach vacation you’re looking for.