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Sicily/Discover It!
Princely Monsters

Was the prince a bit crazed? Or did he merely possess a very creative mind? Discover the "Villa of the Monsters" and decide for yourself.

The grandson of Ferdinando Francesco Gravina was responsible for the statues that run rampant around the Villa Palagonia. Mythological figures. Animals. Musicians. Gargoyles. Farmers. Soldiers. Dwarfs. Ladies. Dragons. And Monsters, all frolic upon the stone walls. The statues were made of "aspra tuf" in the mid-1700's. To this day, they are still a mystery to interpret.
In the 18th c. the great aristocracy of Sicily had their palaces in Palermo and their summer villas in the countryside of Bagheria. The race was on for building the most splendid villas, with opulent interiors & lush gardens. So, the Villa Gravina di Palagonia was begun in 1715 by the first Gravina Prince.What developed was an architectural extravaganza.

Today, the Villa Palagonia (only a short distance from busy Palermo) is a world unto itself, in the rather ordinary looking town of Bagheria. Men play cards on the square. Unattractive apartment buildings hover all around. But like a pearl in an oyster, the villa reveals itself.

Beautiful? Not the right word. It's more a bizarre, personal space where creativity is spewed-out for you to make sense of. The main room open to visitors is the mirrored gallery. Don't think of Versailles. It's not as refined (or large). Oddly shaped mirror is affixed to the ceiling, where one person below is reflected many times above. Plaster busts of ancestors protrude from the walls. Frescos & mythological scenes surround you. Colored glass, marble & stucco-work decoration abound.

But the decorations atop the stables & warehouses that encircle the Villa are the best part. Here you will see the statues seemingly fall over one another as they prance around. Was this a decorative idea that went too far or was the Prince trying to tell us something? Some experts believe the surreal statues were commissioned to represent the lovers of the Prince's faithless wife. Or was he just trying to outdo his aristocratic neighbors with these fanciful figures?
The exterior of the Villa is truly the "monsters" playground. The courtyard gardens that surround the beautiful baroque building have gnarly old lemon trees, cacti and rampant flowering vines. With the grotesque statuary, it's almost like a secret garden gone mad. This may be the stuff of dreams (nightmares?). At the very least, however, it's the stuff of wonderful travel memories.
Check out the Villa's website for further information www.villapalagonia.it and about visiting it. We also recommend the beautiful book, "Palaces of Sicily" (Rizzoli, NY), where you'll be able to see more about the amazing villas of Bagheria & those in other areas of the island.


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