Before you die, you need to spend at least one night with a butler (though we do realize those of you who employ one may think we’re gushing a bit). Preferably Giovanni at the Cip. A suite at the Cipriani Hotel’s Palazzo Vendramin is a true indulgence. Add the butler service & it becomes a hotel experience of a lifetime.

We usually prefer smaller, more intimate hotels than the Cipriani (www.hotelcipriani.it) But like you, have always heard the Cip is the place to stay in Venice. So off we went to the Giudecca, a 5-minute water taxi ride from St. Marks. Most visitors never make it over to Giudecca island unless they're staying at the Cipriani. But even if you don't have a room there, you must go over to see this legendary hotel. To have a drink on their terrace. And most importantly to look back. To see the incredible view over to Venice from a different angle.

In our opinion, the Palazzo Vendramin (or the Palazzetto Nani) are the only places within the Cipriani to book. They certainly have the most character, since they're both very old. And they definitely have the best views. The main part of the Cipriani was constructed in 1956. So the standard-fare accommodations can't compare with either of the above.

We stayed in the very discreet Vendramin, which is away from the hustle-bustle of the hotel's other parts. We had Junior Suite #61. One end the living area overlooks a quiet garden. Green never looked so good, especially in Venice where garden views are at a premium. On the other end of the suite is the bathroom & the bedroom, with their views overlooking the vast Giudecca canal & St. Mark’s. Some call this the finest view in all of Venice. At any rate, it’s the finest view we’ve ever had lying in bed. Watch the boat traffic slosh or zoom by…Venice’s rush hour is entertaining. Wake-up to the early morning mist blanketing the canal. It's just, well, so Venetian.

The suite's “piano noble” level ( traditionally the grandest floor of old Italian palazzos) has soaring ceilings with enough ancient marble, glass chandeliers & antique furnishings to make you feel like a Count or Countess. Very sumptuous, though the upholstery on the sofa & chairs was a bit tired looking & could use a redo. We enjoyed all the printed material left out for guests about the hotel's illustrious history & its facilities. Anything else we wanted to know about the place, we just asked the butler.

It took awhile to orient ourselves to the strategically placed buzzers for calling Giovanni. We meant to turn on the bathroom light & “voila,” there was the butler gently knocking at our door. What do we need? Anything at all... Dinner reservations? A weather report? Or perhaps a bellini cocktail (Venetian specialty) served at bath time?

Beyond the Vendramin & the butler, there are other delights of staying at the Cipriani: Walk reclaimed land that's now the hotel's tidy vineyard. So verdant. So calming. Swim in the olympic-size pool overlooking the lagoon. Be sure to have a drink on the terrace to take in the view some more. And do take advantage of the hotel's complimentary launch service back & forth to St. Mark's Square. Nothing like hopping on a classic speedboat to go shopping in style.

We didn't have enough time on the Giudecca to have a dinner at the hotel, since we were more interested in trying local eateries for the short time we were there. But we have heard that their "Cip Club" is good. It's more low-key than their other restaurant & has a variety of eating options, not just full-out fancy gourmet.