| Venice/Enjoy
It!
Icing
on the Cake |
  We
bet you can't find it. But please try! Discovering the staircase at the
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo is well worth the effort. The word 'bovolo'
means snail shell. Aptly named, since the external staircase we're talking
about is spiral-shaped, like a shell.
Built
in ca.1499, the Palazzo's gothic staircase is white marble, reused from
an ancient church. The effect of this grand staircase is amazing. With
columns & railings gently curving up, up, up. It has been called Venice's
Leaning Tower of Pisa.
But
coming upon it through a maze of very narrow alleyways (and we mean narrow,
even by Venetian standards) is the best part. It's off the Calle della
Vida, near La Fenice (the opera house). But a map in hand isn't all that
helpful. The way to the staircase is marked by small signs with arrows.
But again, not much help since someone couldn't seem to make up his mind
from one sign to the next. A few words of Italian, including where...
"dove?" are helpful, but only if you come face to face with
real Venetians down one of the alleyways. More likely you'll literally
bump into another tourist looking for the exact same thing, also at a
loss for directions.
But
persevere. And please try to find the Bovolo after dusk, on a moonlit
evening. That makes your search even more difficult (sorry), but it makes
the surprise awaiting you even better.
At
that time, you'll come upon this stone wedding cake in all its glory.
Its marble staircase, the cake's icing, becomes illuminated by the moon
against the dark walls of the palazzo. All this is jammed into an area
crowded by other dark old buildings. You'll have to crane your neck way
back to take in this architectural masterpiece.
What
we didn't see were all the cats that supposedly hang out on the stairs.
And we didn't see any sign of life behind the windows, although the Palazzo
is privately owned and well-fenced.
This
is a situation where the search is just as enjoyable as the find. The
"find" in this case, is icing on the cake. Venice is an island
full of such off-the-beaten-path treasures to enjoy. If you can find them.
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